All Categories

Rabbit Calicivirus - Alice Springs Warning

27/2/2017

In Alice Springs, we are warning clients regarding the release of RHDV1 – K2, a new strain of rabbit calicivirus which is due to be released as a form of feral rabbit control throughout Australia in early March. There will be five sites around Alice Springs where it will be released. We are urging rabbit owners of Alice Springs to vaccinate their rabbits to reduce the risk of infection and death.

Currently for the first week of March, our clinic in Alice Springs is holding a vaccination amnesty where we are offering highly reduced rates for this vaccination.

What is RHD / Calicivirus?

Viral Haemorrhagic Disease of rabbits, also known as Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease (RHD) or Rabbit Calicivirus Disease (RCD) is a viral disease that affects rabbits only. RHDV was first identified in captive domestic rabbits in China in 1984, and subsequently spread throughout Asia, Africa, and Europe. In Australia in 1996, it was introduced as a natural form of rabbit control. It has been very effective in reducing populations, particularly in the first release. New strains are released regularly to control wild populations of rabbits.

In Australia, the majority of infections are from RHDV1. A new highly fatal strain of RHDV2 was recently discovered in Australia, but it has not been seen in Alice Springs yet. The Korean variant of RHDV1 is going to be released in March which whilst it is highly fatal, has been shown to be a preventable disease with vaccination.

How is RHD / Calicivirus transmitted?

RHDV is easily transmitted by direct contact with faeces, aerosols and secretions from infected rabbits. More importantly, whatever these secretions contaminate, it can easily aid in spread. So the virus can spread on clothing, cages and shoes. It can be found on grass cuttings, even flies can spread it.

What can I do to prevent the spread?

Prevent contact either direct or indirect with your rabbit and wild rabbits
Avoid feeding your rabbit grass cuttings from your garden or where rabbits have been
Wash your hands with warm soapy water before and between handling rabbits
Provide good insect control, even indoors. Using shade cloth on the hutch will help prevent flies from contacting your rabbit.
If using a litter tray, change regularly to reduce fly contact
Vaccinate

What are the signs of this disease?

The disease causes high mortality with death occurring suddenly in most instances. Animals of all ages can become infected, but the most serious infections are animals older than 5 to 7 weeks of age where there is the high likelihood of sudden death with no prior clinical signs. If signs are seen, it can include being off food, depressed, constipated or having diarrhoea. Some animals will progress to having weakness or seizures.

If my rabbit survives, will he/she still be contagious?

Rabbits that survive this disease may shed virus for 4 or more weeks after infection. Your rabbit should be considered contagious for all of this time if confirmed or suspected having this disease. However, please note that if the symptoms are severe, euthanasia is recommended.

What happens if my place becomes contaminated?

If an infected rabbit was housed in your place, it is important to remove the infected rabbit, disinfect the premises with 10% bleach or F10 disinfectant.

Can I vaccinate my rabbit for this disease?

Thankfully we have a vaccine that is effective for this disease. It is effective for the RHDV1 strains, but may have limited protection for the RHDV2 which currently is not in Alice Springs. The recommended vaccine schedule has changed which is different to what the manufacturers of the vaccine had set. For young rabbits, we now recommend vaccination at 4, 8 and 12 weeks of age and then every 6 months. For older rabbits, we recommend 2 vaccinations 1 month apart and then every 6 months.

Dr Alex Burleigh

Dr Alex Burleigh is based in Katherine, NT at Katherine Veterinary Clinic, part of Northern Territory Veterinary Services. He is a part owner and one of the senior veterinarians at both Katherine Veterinary Clinic and Alice Veterinary Centre. Dr Alex Burleigh is a published author with works appearing in veterinary texts, scientific journals and online websites. He consults regularly at both practices.

1 Comment

My dog has swallowed a hook. What should I do? A Guide to Hook-related injuries in Dogs.

12/5/2016

3 Comments

The Dry season is finally here, or at least attempting to be, so as the waters run off (in reality they have already run off), we start to see a range of hook related issues in our dogs. Can I just say out from the start, hooks and dogs don't mix. If you want to go fishing, it's probably best to leave your dog behind. They'll scare the fish away, or at worst, attract a loving six metre salt water handbag (or for those not in the know - a crocodile!!). But our biggest concern is hooks and dogs. Dogs can either get them hooked in a paw, in a lip, or even worse, swallow them.

So what can we do if we are far away and our dog gets a hook related issue?

Here is a quick guide on what to do. First of all, Don't Panic!! Try to get veterinary attention or seek veterinary advice for the individual circumstance. If no vet is around or you have no phone access, do the following:

- If the hook is caught on a paw or lip, and if the dog lets you, cut the hook in half and push the sharp point forwards. Do not pull it back as the barb will catch the tissue. Be careful to not get bitten or hooked up. Regardless, if the hook is removed, seek veterinary attention, as a tetanus shot will be likely required, and a course of antibiotics may be needed.

- If the hook is swallowed and there is no string coming out of the dog's mouth, give the dog food to help coat the hook. In some cases the hook will pass through its system and eventually out into the dog's poo. This should be done under veterinary monitoring and x-rays may be needed to monitor its progress. If it gets stuck, surgical removal may be required
- However, if there is string hanging out, this is a veterinary emergency. Whatever you do, DO NOT PULL THE STRING. Also do not cut the string. Under careful veterinary management, it is possible in most circumstances to remove the hook without the need for surgery (unless it is multiple barbs or hooks). The string

allows the vet to gently manipulate the hook from the dogs stomach using specialised equipment. If you happen to pull the string, it could lodge the hook in the stomach wall or even worse, the oesophagus which could lead to complicated surgery. So please leave the hook alone.

So hopefully this gives you a good guide if this emergency should ever occur, but avoidance is always the best option. So leave your beloved fur friend at home if you decide to go fisihing. Your dog will appreciate not having to be driven to the vet in the middle of the night, and it will be a lot more helpful on the hip pocket.

3 Comments

Parvovirus Outbreak - Alice Springs Region

9/1/2016

1 Comment

Parvovirus is easily prevented through vaccination

Recently at Alice Veterinary Centre, we have seen an outbreak of parvoviral diarrhoea. We have seen several cases in the past week, and there would be many more that do not make it into the clinic. This is a tragedy, as this life threatening disease is easily prevented in most cases by simple vaccination.

Canine parvovirus is a highly contagious virus that causes life threatening bloody diarrhoea. In the majority of cases, the disease is fatal if treatment is not sought. Parvovirus is one of the largest causes of severe illness and death for puppies and adolescent dogs in Australia.

Fortunately, parvovirus is a treatable disease and if caught early, can be cured, especially with the advent of a number of new treatments, but this can be expensive. In our clinic, we have a close to 95% success rate with treatment, but the dog usually has to be hospitalised for several days for intensive care and requires multiple medications.

Home treatment for parvo infection is a bad idea when compared to hospitalisation and intensive care. The death rate rises substantially, and the profuse diarrhoea and vomiting will lead to heavy viral contamination in the home. This virus can persist in the environment for up to 7 months.

Parvoviral infection must be considered as a possibility in any young dog with vomiting and/or diarrhoea. We urge all dog owners to get their animals vaccinated for this disease. Prevention is far better and cheaper than treatment for this horrible disease.

Please note: Parvovirus poses no viral risk to humans, cats and livestock

1 Comment

Protect Your Dogs This Fireworks Night

17/6/2015

1 Comment

Every year many dogs in the NT become terrified, destroy furniture in a blind panic or go missing on and around fireworks night. Most return or are found unharmed, but sadly each year some are never found.

Fortunately with a little bit of planning this is entirely preventable. If your dog is fearful, it is important to understand what you should do in the lead up to Territory Day so as to make sure your little furry friend can cope with the loud night.

Why are some dogs afraid and some are not?

Many dogs are terrified of loud noises such as thunder, or gunshots, some more than others. It is entirely natural to be a little fearful of loud noises as they often accompany danger (such as the roar of a lion). But if the reaction is excessive and there is no actual danger, then your dog can come into trouble. To some extent excessive fear is genetic, but it can also be learned if the fear-inducing noise originally accompanied a scary event.

And let’s face it, to many animals and even to us, fireworks are excessively loud, and scary. Not only that, they have strong smells and can even start fires which can accentuate these scary scenarios.

How do I know if my dog is fearful?

Most people will know if their dog is likely to be fearful at fireworks night and to what degree. If your dog is afraid of thunder or gunshots, or has been afraid of fireworks before, it will most likely be afraid of fireworks this time too. Often this fear is greater as generally fireworks are repetitive, close by, loud and inescapable.

What are the signs of fear / phobia of fireworks?

The signs of any loud noise phobia can vary. Sometimes they are mild. Sometimes the symptoms can be severe Different symptoms can include one or more of the following:

- Seeking attention
- Wanting to hide
- Shaking
- Freezing
- Some dogs will pace or run around
- Barking
- Urination
- Defaecation
- Self-trauma
- Destroying furniture or other household items
- Attempts to escape

We’ve even come across dogs that have thrown themselves through glass windows, dogs that have tried to dig through concrete floors. It can be quite distressing for many animals as well as the owners to witness their dog’s fears.

What should I do to help my dog?

Remember that although fireworks can only legally be set off on one night, they are often set off illegally on nights before and after so you need to plan ahead.

1. Provide a safe place: Make sure your dog has a safe and secure area to shelter in well ahead of time. Somewhere comfortable, with possibly a blanket to hide under. Often you may know your dog’s safe place.

Remember that a yard or area of a house that normally provides a secure area can be broken out of in a blind panic during fireworks. Dogs have been known to scale high fences and dive through glass windows when panicked. So careful planning is essential

2. Play familiar noises and block out vision of the fireworks: It can be helpful to drown out the loud noises by having the TV on or leaving a radio on. This may help relieve the incessant noises from outside. Also blocking the vision of fireworks may reduce the anticipation and association with these noises.

3. Keep an eye on your dog: It is preferable to have someone home with the dog to supervise and support them if at all possible. Comfort your dog if they require support. Otherwise, act happy and confident, and reward your dog for confident behaviour.

4. Most importantly, speak to your vet: If you know or suspect your dog will become afraid during this period, it is essential to have a talk to your vet. They may advise pheromone therapy or prescribing some sedatives or anti-anxiety medication for your dog. These are often essential for some animals and offer the safest, most effective way to get your dog through this period with as little stress and hassle as possible.

by Dr Alex Burleigh

1 Comment

Canine Female Contraceptives in Remote Communities

20/1/2015

7 Comments

There are many different forms of contraception for our canine companions that are effective in population control for remote community animals. Some are more effective than others, some have dangers attached and some contraceptives are prohibitively expensive. In this article, we will explore some of the main drugs that are used in remote community work.

So what are they and what do they actually do?

There are 2 main types of contraceptives that are used in remote community work, one family is called progestagens, and the other main family is GNRH antagonists.
- The progestagens (MPA® or Covinan®) mimic female hormones that make the dog think it is pregnant By doing this, it stops the body’s production of eggs and hence acts as a contraceptive.
- GNRH antagonists (Suprelorin®) work in a different way by stopping the flow of oestrogen which will stop the dog becoming fertile.
Both of these types of drugs can be used successfully to reduce breeding of dogs in remote communities, but there can be side effects, so caution must be used.

Administering the Contraceptive

What should we be looking for when trying to work out the best contraceptives for our community's dogs?

Well, we have to work out how frequently we have to use them. With the progestagen Covinan®, this drug needs to be used every 3 months. With the progestagen MPA, studies have shown that this is 98% effective if used every 5 months, and reduces to 90% if used every 6 months. With the GnRH antagonist, Suprelorin®, it is highly effective if used every 12 months, but it should be noted that a bitch will actually become more fertile for the first month.

So why don't we jump straight for the GnRH antagonist (Suprelorin®)?

The problem is that it is exceedingly expensive. The price of Suprelorin® is between 10 to 30 times more expensive than progestagens. In fact it is almost more expensive or equates to the cost of desexing a dog in some programs.
This means that for every Suprelorin® injection, 15 dogs could have had their 2 contraceptives each year.
The second problem is there is a very high risk of side effects. Some studies indicate that they can be as high as 60%.
So, it is our belief that it is better to use a progestagen for population control.

So when should we use them?

Female canine contraception can be incorporated into any effective dog program to help control dog numbers. It is important when organising a service provider that you direct them to the combination of drugs that you want for the animals in your community. In making this decision, it is vital to work out the timing of the visits in relation to the drugs being used. Please note, it is important to always incorporate desexing into any dog program as this will give permanent contraception. Contraceptives should only be used on undesexed animals.
The contraceptive type ultimately depends on how frequent the programs are to be run:
One Visit per Year: If only one visit a year is available, then Suprelorin® can be used. One visit still misses any dogs that were born and reached a breeding age, so it is never ideal to have just one visit. Additionally, other contraceptives will not act for a long enough period. Using Suprelorin® can become a very expensive exercise and can often cost more than having another two to three visits each year.
2+ Visits per Year: If two or more visits a year are available, then it is better to go with the drug MPA. This is a cheaper option and is extremely effective. Another added advantage is that more regular visits allow more desexings to be performed, and ultimately provide longer lasting population control results in the community’s dogs.

Can anyone give this drug?

Unfortunately no, and generally there are good reasons. These drugs are what's known as prescription drugs and must be either administered or dispensed by a veterinarian. Overdosage can lead to health problems in the animal that may not be reversible. Also these drugs can be dangerous to people, so caution must be used. A skilled veterinary operator is well versed in administering these drugs.

If you would like further information, please contact us on info@ntvet.com.au or call 08 89723599.

Dr Alexander Burleigh BSc(Vet) BVSc

7 Comments

The Do’s and Don’ts of Heat Stroke

11/11/2014

2 Comments

by Dr Lauren Walter

It is the hot time of year again, and sadly, heat stroke (otherwise known as heat stress or exercise induced hyperthermia) is a real and potentially fatal risk to your pet. The most common heat stress situations occur when dogs are left in cars, worked in hot conditions, left unattended in yards with little shade, or when they knock their water over.

There are even some dogs that are at increased risk of getting too hot. These are generally short-nosed breeds such as bulldogs and pugs, and those with underlying breathing difficulties. These dogs have problems because their main cooling method (ie. panting) is already compromised. And we also have to be careful of working dogs and mad ball chasers, which are very prone to heat stress if not given “rest breaks”.

.It has been shown that on a 30’C day, the temperature in a parked car can reach 50’C in 5 minutes and over 70’C within 10 minutes! Leaving the windows ajar makes no difference to the temperature increase. Your dog’s normal temperature is between 38 and 39’C and they only have to reach 42’C to be at risk of dying.

Heat stroke is a very serious condition with many complications that requires aggressive intensive care. Unfortunately, many severely affected dogs do not recover.

But what should we do if the worst happens?
If you find your pet overheated, follow these simple guidelines to help maximize their chance of recovery:
Do
1. Immediately wet them down with cool water (not cold). Repeat frequently!! Hosing gently under the neck and belly between the legs can be effective.

2. Take them to the vet ASAP. Time is of the essence!!
3. Wet them down for the journey. Windows down, fans full blast and air conditioning on.

If you are unable to come in immediately,
1. Move your animal to a cool shaded area with good air flow or use a fan.
2. Wet down your animal. Place cool packs (or ice packs wrapped in towels) in armpits and groin areas.
3. If possible, Monitor their rectal temperature.

Regardless, you must stop actively cooling once temperature reduces to 39.5’C.

Do NOT

1. Do NOT Immerse your dog in cold water or put them in ice baths.This reduces peripheral circulation, and whilst the extremities become cold, their vital internal organs stay hot! Animals that are over-cooled (become hypothermic) are much less likely to survive.

2. Do NOT Cut their ears. Dogs can survive despite this common procedure, but it does nothing to help them. It does not help to cool your dog at all!! In fact, the resultant blood loss can further reduce vital organ function and make things worse. Your pet is in a critical condition and may develop a bleeding disorder. More blood loss will not help!

3. Do NOT Cover them with towels, wet or otherwise. People often think this is the right thing to do. In fact, this can prevent proper convection cooling and actually trap the heat in.

So what should I do to help them in the future?

Do NOT Exercise dogs during the day in hot weather. Prevention is better than cure. In warm conditions, allow your pet to rest and cool every 30 minutes. Be particularly careful in humid weather as their normal panting (evaporative cooling) system is less effective. You cannot rely on them to tell you when they need a rest

Most importantly Do NOT Put a recovered dog in a risky situation again. There can be permanent damage to the ‘heat centre’ of the brain from an episode of heat stress. Recovered animals remain at a higher risk of developing hyperthermia and hyopothermia in the future.

For further questions or queries, contact our vets at Katherine Veterinary Clinic, or Alice Veterinary Centre.

2 Comments

My pet is bleeding!! What should I do?

15/10/2014

0 Comments

by Dr Sophie Parratt

A common question I get from pet owners is ‘What do I do if my pet gets a cut or is injured? It is likely that one day your beloved friend is going to hurt themselves and in that instance to follow some basic steps will help to ensure that the wound heals well and your pet recovers properly.

Here are some tips for basic first aid and assessment.

Don’t panic- if you become distressed you are going to be of no use to you pet, take a deep breath and think! This may help them keep calm too.

1. Be careful-your pet is likely to be in pain, scared and therefore more likely to bite! You may want a muzzle when examining the wound- use a soft muzzle if you have one or a slip lead or bandage to gently tie their mouth. You may need an assistant to hold them to have a closer look.

2. Assess the wound and stop the bleeding. The principles are the same as in humans, steady pressure and elevate where possible. If bleeding is severe, apply firm pressure to the area with sterile gauze pad or a clean cloth. Do not lift the gauze or cloth to see if the bleeding has stopped- this will remove the blood clot that is forming underneath. If the wound bleeds through, apply another layer on top of the cloth/gauze already in place. Tourniquets are a last resort and must be loosened every few minutes to restore blood to the injured limb. Do not attempt to remove a protruding object from a wound!

3. Contact your vet, particularly if there is heavy bleeding, wound is large, deep or has anything imbedded in it.

4. Make sure your animal is up to date with their tetanus shots

What about more serious wounds? Pig and dog fight wounds can be far more traumatic than they look. Often animals are shaken vigorously causing injury to tissues extending much further than the wound you can see. Puncture wounds might not look like much but a tooth or tusk will have left bacteria and foreign material inside the wound. This can cause severe infection, especially if the skin closes over before the underlying tissues have has a chance to heal. It is important that these injuries are explored thoroughly, and this requires a visit to the vet.

Any further questions do no hesitate to contact us at either our Katherine or Alice Springs practices

0 Comments

Welcome to our new page

13/10/2014

1 Comment

Today our clinic embarks on a new service to provide the latest information to our clients and help inspire understanding of the latest treatments for your pets. We hope this will be of benefit to you and your animals.

Sincerely,
Alex and the staff of NTVS

1 Comment

Forward>>

Rabbit Calicivirus - Alice Springs Warning

My dog has swallowed a hook. What should I do? A Guide to Hook-related injuries in Dogs.

So what can we do if we are far away and our dog gets a hook related issue?

Parvovirus Outbreak - Alice Springs Region

Protect Your Dogs This Fireworks Night

Canine Female Contraceptives in Remote Communities

So what are they and what do they actually do?

What should we be looking for when trying to work out the best contraceptives for our community's dogs?

So why don't we jump straight for the GnRH antagonist (Suprelorin®)?

So when should we use them?

Can anyone give this drug?

The Do’s and Don’ts of Heat Stroke

My pet is bleeding!! What should I do?

Welcome to our new page

NT Vet Services News

Categories

Archives

So what can we do if we are far away and our dog gets a hook related issue?

So what are they and what do they actually do?

What should we be looking for when trying to work out the best contraceptives for our community's dogs?

So why don't we jump straight for the GnRH antagonist (Suprelorin®)?

﻿So when should we use them?﻿

Can anyone give this drug?

NT Vet Services News

Categories

Archives

So when should we use them?